How Many Plants In A Flat

How Many Plants In A Flat – Growers often ask me for examples of growing cannabis for better yields indoors. A plant that is trained to grow wide and straight in the vegetative stage will produce more buds indoors than a naturally grown plant. Especially with smaller grow lights or a short setup.

One of the popular ways to create a flat hemp canopy is ScrOG, which stands for “Screen of Green”. Essentially, this means training the plants to grow straight along the screen or grid.

How Many Plants In A Flat

Many growers use the ScrOG (screen of green) technique to grow flat plants, like this wonderful picture of Scrogg. Plants are grown along a screen or grid in the vegetative phase.

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This flat plant shape maximizes yield under indoor grow lights by filling the entire grow space with buds. But is there an easier way to achieve the same result?

Although the results are a great crop, the “scroging” needs some work. In addition to having to make (or buy) a screen and install it in the grow room, the process of pushing the plants through the mesh can be time-consuming. In addition, once the training process begins, the plants cannot be moved independently. With their stems woven through the mesh, the plants are essentially “stuck” in the screen until harvest. This can make it difficult to water the plants and/or access the medium.

Today you will learn how to make a “round” without a net. Get the same results with less effort!

The resulting plant was less than 20″ (50 cm) tall at harvest and look at all those buds!

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Today I will share an alternative method to achieve similar results. This method of training plants to grow straight gives the same overall result with less work, while still allowing you to move and access the plant as needed. Here it goes!

I cut off the top of the main stem (“top” of the plant) after about 5 sets of leaves (5th node). This breaks the apical dominance and makes the plant wider and bushier. There is no perfect or best time to top the plant, although most growers do it above node 3-6. A top score above 5 is good every time, so that’s what I’m doing.

As the plant grows, cut off the tops of some stems that start to grow more than others. This simple system (let’s call it the “top of all tall stems” training method) ensures that no stem becomes significantly taller than the others by creating more branches. This works well with any plant, including asymmetrical clones like this one that are not good candidates for more structured techniques like propagation.

Be careful when the plant is growing. If any stem seems taller than the others, cut off the top.

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This Pineapple Chunk clone has been outgrown many times and has gone wild. Ready for training! (I’m using this layout)

The idea behind this step is to simply bend all the stems over and away from the center of the plant. The goal is to eventually fill the tent with a broad, flat canopy before flowering begins.

I got a ring of plant twine and cut off sections to hold all the branches in place

I used Fiskars scissors to drill holes in the fabric pot and thread the twist tie through them. Another option for attaching a twist tie is a safety buckle, but they can rust over time.

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(in case you’re wondering, although this technique works in any setup): HLG 65W (4000k version) LED grow light in a 2’x2’x3′ (0.6m x 0.6m x 0.9m) grow tent. Use of Floral trio + CaliMagic as nutrients and supplements. Full configuration list here.

Here is the view from above. Notice how much more plants are covered in the tent after you spread and straighten the plant. The whole tent will be a sea of ​​buds at harvest time!

With the desired coverage achieved, I started flowering by placing the grow lights on a 12/12 light schedule right after the last picture.

At this point, there’s really nothing left to do but respond to signs of trouble, water the plant as needed, and wait for the harvest.

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At harvest, the plant is still less than 20″ (50cm) tall and has produced over 3 ounces of a small 65W LED grow light. Not bad! AS you may know from my bio, I share my small flat in London with over 500 plants. That’s why I’m fascinated by the promise of the many health benefits of indoor gardening. With the current boom in interest in this hobby, the Internet is full of helpful tips for “10 Best Indoor Air Purifying Plants” and species marketed as “The air is so clean “.

Being a statistician, I wanted to calculate exactly how much the concentration of plants in my apartment can clean the air. This turned out to be quite profound…

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Way to get bigger returns indoors? Plant training can increase indoor yields by 40% or more (compared to letting plants grow naturally) by forcing plants to grow larger, denser buds without as many smaller or airy buds.

During the flowering stage, this shape ensures that many of the buds develop into long, thick necks, taking advantage of the fact that cannabis plants put the most energy into the buds that are at the top of the plant and near the grow light.

Although plant training can produce impressive results, marijuana growers sometimes don’t get the right information, which can lead to unfortunate mistakes that hurt their yields!

With that in mind, I’m going to cover the 7 most common marijuana growing mistakes to help you get the results you want every time, even if it’s your first time!

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On our growing forum, when I asked what the biggest mistakes people make when it comes to growing their cannabis plants, the most common response was that growers actually regret not growing their plants in the first place!

It’s true that you can get great results without growing the plant, but growing techniques can significantly improve your yield compared to letting the plant grow in its natural form. Training a plant can be as simple or as complicated as you like, but even a little effort early in your plant’s life can make a big difference to your final bud weight!

The trained plant on the right had many more main necks and produced many more buds than the untrained plant on the left, even though it took up less space.

It is important to use bending techniques from the beginning of the plant’s life because the stems begin to harden as they age. If you start when the plant is still young, the whole process goes much easier!

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But even if you are careful, you can accidentally break the stem. Most often, this happens when we try to forcefully bend an older stem that has become thick and unyielding.

Nothing beats bending when the stems are pliable to get your plants to grow the way you want them to, but there are a few techniques that can help you bend over the stems after they’ve hardened!

Over-Pruning (Advanced) – If the stem feels too stiff but needs to be bent, don’t force it! Use a technique called “overshearing” to soften the inside first so the skin doesn’t break.

If you end up breaking the main stem, you can often cover the wound like a cast and the plant will heal over the next week or two.

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Remember: If you break off a plant’s main stem early in life, it’s no big deal, as there are usually dozens of additional growing tips to replace it! And even if you break off the main stem/wheel during flowering and can’t tape it in time, it can help to remember that most growers lose a wheel at some point!

A very small plant simply cannot produce as many buds as a larger plant, so you can reduce yield if you keep the plants smaller than necessary. Growing your own will give you the best yields

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