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## What Is The Primary Function Of Wave Summation

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Received: August 4, 2021 / Revised: September 25, 2021 / Accepted: September 28, 2021 / Published: October 1, 2021

On the basis of the response, experiments and numerical experiments using the spectral and wave analysis methods, the change of the waves of the waves in the coastal area across the bottom inclined is considered correct. The nonlinearity causes significant changes in the wave shape as it propagates up the coast. Since these changes occur very quickly, the motion of the waves is not time in space, and the use of the concept of the theory of wave number or wavelength leads to some results try not well. When analyzing the spatial evolution of the wave in the frequency, the effect of the power change and the phase change of the first and second harmonics of the wave are found. When the wavenumber domain is considered, the free and bound weak energy of the first and second harmonics appear with constant spatial amplitudes, and all the spatial fluctuations of the wave are not caused by the influence of the fourth harmonics. Important effects such as spatial fluctuations of wave energy and anomalous dispersion of the second harmonic are presented and discussed.

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Waves are the main source of energy in coastal areas and therefore wave changes are the main factors that determine many dynamic processes. In addition, the waves affect the structure of the beach, and the knowledge of the change of their parameters as the wave moves to the beach is necessary for the design. on the beach against wave impact. The lack of waves and the rules of their changes are necessary to solve the practical and theoretical problems of the development and recreation of all coastal areas.

The main characteristic of nonlinear transformation of waves in the coastal area over the inclined bottom is the formation of high-frequency wave components. For the first time, the introduction of free and bound waves in the context of nonlinear wave interaction was done in [1] for the case of the interaction of four waves in deep water. It has been shown that free waves correspond to strong interactions while no interactions can form bound waves. For the dynamic process of shallow and medium depth, the second harmonic, which contains the free and bound structure, is more important. This fact is well known in the coastal engineering community. However, a detailed explanation of the influence of free association and weak binding on wave dynamics in coastal areas is lacking because no there is a review of solutions and problems in the simultaneous measurement of physical and differential free surface pressure in physical experiments. .

The second nonlinear wave correlation is important because it is responsible for the shoreward wave component of sediment discharge q. according to the popular glue, introduced by Bailard [2] and then simplified by Steve [3]

Are the amplitudes of the first and second harmonics of the wave velocity near the bottom which is linearly proportional to the leading harmonics of the wave, and φ is the phase shift between them. If in

### Equations Of Motion

= 0 or φ = ± π / 2, then q will be equal to 0. In this case beach erosion will occur because there will be no part of the wave of sediment transported to the shore and the underwater flow shows seaward will win.

It has been shown that the exchange of energy between the first and second settlement facilitates the formation and movement of sand under water [4, 5]. In addition, the time exchange of the harmonic energy leads to the creation and disappearance of secondary waves that change the average wave period [6, 7].

The phase shift between the harmonics of the first and second wave φ affects the type of wave breaking [8]. The time-varying energy in the center of the harmonic wave during near-resonant three-wave interaction causes a change in φ of ±π/2 for the wave propagating over a gentle downward slope. In the spilling buffer, φ is close to zero, which corresponds to the symmetry of the vertical axis. In the fall explosion, the phase shift φ is about −π/2, which corresponds to the second harmonic shift forward with respect to the first and asymmetric on the vertical line. Because of the difference, plunging breaking waves cause erosion of the cross-coastal underwater bottom profile between the breaking point and the shore, while spilling does not cause the sand to accumulate on the it.

Various instruments including satellites, radars, LIDARs, ADCPs, etc. are used to determine the changes in the waves. However, the most important information from the point of view of the physical study of the change of the wave is the contacts that receive chronograms of the weak person from the development of the wave water gauges (capacitive and resistive metal meters or bottom pressure gauges) or buoys. Classical spectra of spatial wave fluctuations in deep water wave theory are based on wave number. For coastal areas whose length is less than 1 km, and some areas that need to be studied are even shorter. Therefore, the spatial scales in the coastal area are from one to several wavelengths. It is not enough to create reliable wavenumber spectra. Therefore, the change in the wave is not estimated based on the change in the wave frequency spectrum obtained for each measured wave. How wave number and frequency wave spectra are different and how they affect the determination of uneven wave parameters according to the water depth will not be well understood.

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A decrease in water depth causes changes in the waves and changes in their shape in space. Nonlinear characteristics of wave transformation have been observed in many places, experimentally and mathematically, but their physical interpretation is often difficult because there are no general solutions that describe wave transformation in such cases. The most popular is the theoretical approximation of long waves in shallow water for kh << 1 where h is the depth, k is the wave number, assuming that the waves are not coherent. However, in most of the coastal areas, the waves propagate at the so-called "mid-depth", when kh = O (1). As shown in [10], the evolution of such waves is associated with the generation of nonlinear harmonics due to nearly resonant three-wave (or triadic) interaction:

Where ω = ω(k) is the angular frequency associated with the wavenumber from the interaction for gravitational waves ω2 = gk·tanh(kh), g is the acceleration of gravity, and δ is the detuning ( or phase mismatch) which results from the inability to meet the conditions of all resonances (δ = 0) for the difference in frequency. If we take into account the wave equation with the first-defined boundary conditions describing the wave propagation of medium depth above the horizontal bottom, then we will get a solution [10] which consists of the first harmonic with a constant amplitude and two other harmonics, free and bound, with double the frequency of the first harmonic and the wavenumbers determined by the interaction for the interaction harmonic free and equal to twice the wavenumber of the first harmonic:

Where the amplitude coefficients are constant depending on the wave number and water depth. The superposition of the amplitude of the free and bound second harmonic in the frequency domain causes spatial fluctuations of the wave amplitude. Theoretically, he showed [10] that “the free … second harmonic will interact with the first wave to produce numbers and differences”. Thus, the interaction between the difference between the free first harmonic of the wave and the free second harmonic will create a bound first harmonic with the same frequency as free but a different wavenumber.

In [10], evolutionary equations have also been proposed, which include providing solutions that are only a combination of relationships in frequency with amplitudes that vary slowly in space. The numerical solution of this equation is in good agreement with the data of the measurement [10].

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It is clear that the beats of harmonic amplitudes that gradually vary in space indicate that there is simultaneously free.

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